The plane finally lands on the runway at Kangerlussuaq, Greenland. After months of preparation, my partner and I are ready to start the most remote trek of our lives: the Arctic Circle Trail. Located just above the Arctic Circle, it stretches around 165 km, connecting the ice cap to the coast through wild tundra. It’s the middle of the summer and while most of our friends are sipping fresh rosé in the warmth of Provence, we’ve chosen the isolation and unpredictable weather of the Arctic. Why? Because it is the best season to do it! Snow-free for only a few months each year, the first sub-zero nights of August had already thinned out the swarms of flies, leaving the vast, empty tundra and the raw beauty of the Arctic wilderness.
Formed by snow accumulating over time, the ice cap covers about 85% of Greenland and can reach a thickness of 3 km in the middle of the country. But what about the ice-free 15 %? Nowadays, the ice-free areas are situated along the coast. During the last ice age (that ended about 11 000 years ago), the entire continent was covered in glaciers. Thus, the rocks now visible at the coast were designed, shaped, and eroded by the past ice sheet. Aged at 1 to 3 Ga (Giga-annum - so billion years), they are among the oldest exposed rocks in the world.
Old rocks shaped by the ice: paradise from a geologist/glaciologist perspective! The landscape presents the typical features of an environment covered by glaciers in the past. Valleys are U-shaped because they were formed by glaciers, rocks are sheepback-shaped because of glacier abrasion, and you can find erratic blocks on the highest points. Erratics are deposited by the glacier when it retreated.
Picture 1: typical landscape encounter during the hike. Credits: Lisa Ardoin
Preparing a hike in remote areas demands good organization: a satellite phone in case of emergency and being self-sufficient for 8 to 10 days, depending on how fast you decide to walk. There are non-guarded huts (for 6 to 10 people) along the way every 15 to 20 km that allow nights protected from the wind. However, carrying a tent is essential in case the huts are crowded, or if you simply prefer the solitude to avoid social chatter.
Picture 2: The Nerumaq hut - lost in a majestuous glacier valley.
The only easily accessible supply on the trail is water. Melted waters from present-day glacier run to the sea, and river crossing is part of the trail. Two times we had to take off our shoes for crossing as the water level was above the knee. A perfect way to refresh our feet, and nothing gets the blood flowing like an icy glacial stream! In addition to that, as these lands are covered by snow most of the year, it results in a very wet environment during the summer, where the soil is ice free for three to four months. Ponds and swamps dominate the landscape, turning keeping your shoes dry into a challenging sport. This benefits opportunistic species, crazy about hikers: flies and mosquitoes. Head nets are indispensable to hike in this environment, unless you like extra protein!
The path traverses the Aasivissuit – Nipisat hunting grounds, which was classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2018. This vast expanse of land was an important Inuit hunting region for more than 4 200 years. And for good reason! With no trees, the ancient glacier valley is occupied only by wild fauna and offers uninterrupted views all the way. Populated by muskoxen, arctic hares and foxes, the path is also used by reindeers. We saw some every day, and they are not even scared of humans as they are not used to seeing us. This year, polar bears were spotted twice along the way. They are a real threat to hikers, although they did not venture into this region until very recently. Climate change is forcing them to migrate to new territories as the area of their summer habitat will be reduced by more than 40 % by the middle of the 21st century. We safely finished the trail four days before the second bear alert. Important to put it in perspective: it is very rare for a polar bear to be seen in the Arctic Circle Region, locals don’t carry rifles when they are out in the backcountry either, unless they are specifically going hunting.
Picture 3: Fauna encounters on the path: (A) Reindeer footprints on the path, (B) fearless reindeer, (C) a fearless ptarmigan, (D) an Arctic hare, (E) an Arctic fox and (F) muskoxen in the distance. Credits: Lisa Ardoin
The remoteness and natural beauty of this long-distance hike makes it one of the most remarkable paths above the Arctic Circle. The preparation is mentally demanding and we had to carry 13 and 15 kg (average is more between 18 and 20 kg) of supplies for 10 days, but the landscapes and silence are a golden reward.
Growing in popularity, (6 to 8 people around the huts every evening), the path suffers from pollution around the campsites. There is no waste collection and thus all hikers have to take care of their own trash. This simple rule is unfortunately not followed by everyone. It is important to stress one more time that anything you take with you into a pristine and wild environment, you must also take back out. The preservation of such habitats relies on the consciousness of the ones who step into them.
Picture 4: Point of view from the bottom of a U-valley. Credits: Lisa Ardoin
We arrived at Sisimiut after 9 days of hiking. The last morning was frosted and was actually the first time we had a clear blue sky. The return to civilization began around midday, as we followed a developing route where a road is being constructed between Sisimiut and Kangerlussuaq. This road will partly follow the path we did by foot, and give access to the wonderful landscapes we saw. As after each hike, the best reward is the warm shower and a soft bed. But what brought me the greatest satisfaction was parting with the 1.5 kg of waste I had diligently collected along the way, leaving the landscape as pristine as I found it. As we stepped back into civilization, I carried with me not just the memories of breathtaking views but also a renewed appreciation for the wild, remote places.
Picture 5: first contact with civilization: an excavator along the way.
DISCLAMER: This hike is suitable for experienced long-distance hikers only. Attempt the trail at their own risk. There is no escape option along the hike and rescue on the path is expensive and complicated.
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